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(RD26) RD26 - Spear - Build session 2 and test flights

Published: Sat Apr 14 2012


We start this build session with a Tupperware container, Most multirotor pilots are not fond of this technique as it does not protect the flight controller very much in a hard crash, but we live in the subarctic and out winters last a long time, so using this technique is more about snow and moisture protection than about physical protection. When I build these models with a tupperware type container, I make sure that when the model is upside down that the 4 motors touch the floor as well as the Tupperware container, that way if there really is a crash, motors and arms will take the load.

Next I drill a series of holes, the outer set will be for the standoffs that hold the FC, while the inner 4 holes align with the inside 4 screws holding the main frame together. The center hold is for wires and matches the center hole of the frame.

Using nylon screws and standoffs, we start to assemble our canopy base.

The screws

and the standoffs are from hobby king

Standoffs are installed

Now we will mount it by removing the screws from the frame

when they are out we are ready to mount the canopy base.

all the holes line up

Here I attach the base (the first of many times)

The I take it off and add some rubber vibration dampers

Change the screws out for longer screws

And mount it for the last time.

Test fit the FC

Mount the RX module and the Telem module with Velcro

Mount the Spektrum Sat with velcro as well.

so far so good. 

Now I need to build some kind of power distribution system, I have had good success with this style on the vc-450 before. So I solder them up and throw on some heat shrink.

I crimp the edges of the heat shrink with my hemostats, this creates a grippable edge to the plugs making it easier to hold in tight spots.

The finished harness

Now we remove the bottom plate (again one of many times during this build) and install the power distribution, and route the ESC cables up to the canopy. 

Now everything is exactly where I want it. we need to put the bottom plate back on.

But first lets put the battery strap in, This is a particular type of strap I prefer, and I was saving this one for this build :)

Now the plate is installed again.

I need to mount the GoPro so I modify a standard flat surface mount receptacle for the GoPro so that you can access the screw to remove the plate after the mount is adhered to the bottom plate. 

Now the GoPro is mounted. It is turned about 2 degrees away from straight forward because the actual lens is off center so if you put the GoPro on straight, you will see a leg on one side.

Here we mount the LiPo and test the strap, works perfect.

The main build is now complete, time for test flights and tuning

Test flights confirm that this model will easily handle the 5000 mAh lipo and GoPro payload with 1045 EPPs

 

 

 

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